Boots that fit before you pack anything else
Toes, heels and a thick sock: what I check in a shop and on a hill.
October 4, 2026 · 9 min
Planning days that are not too far or too high
How I cut a route into days that a tired person can still walk.
Before the Pass
A short letter every Sunday from Leh: one thing about getting ready, one thing to pack and one thing to practise.
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Kitchen tent
Tea, soup and water: eating well when you are high
What the kitchen tent serves at five in the morning, and why it works.