Why we turn back at the first bad headache
The one rule on the trail that I never bend, and how I say it kindly.
October 11, 2026 · 6 min
Boots that fit before you pack anything else
Toes, heels and a thick sock: what I check in a shop and on a hill.
Before the Pass
A short letter every Sunday from Leh: one thing about getting ready, one thing to pack and one thing to practise.
Leh
Your inbox
- 6,100 readers
- Free, and you can leave any time
More posts
Below the pass
Indus valley
Planning days that are not too far or too high
How I cut a route into days that a tired person can still walk.