What goes in the top of the pack
The short list I reach for first, and the heavy things that stay at the bottom.
November 8, 2026 · 9 min
Two days in Leh before you go any higher
Thin air, a slow walk to the market and why the first two days are empty.
Before the Pass
A short letter every Sunday from Leh: one thing about getting ready, one thing to pack and one thing to practise.
Leh
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