Two days in Leh before you go any higher
Thin air, a slow walk to the market and why the first two days are empty.
November 1, 2026 · 8 min
What goes in the top of the pack
The short list I reach for first, and the heavy things that stay at the bottom.
Before the Pass
A short letter every Sunday from Leh: one thing about getting ready, one thing to pack and one thing to practise.
Leh
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Stairs with a loaded pack, four weeks out
Twenty minutes up and down with a few bottles of water on my back.