Stairs with a loaded pack, four weeks out
Twenty minutes up and down with a few bottles of water on my back.
October 18, 2026 · 12 min
Why we turn back at the first bad headache
The one rule on the trail that I never bend, and how I say it kindly.
Before the Pass
A short letter every Sunday from Leh: one thing about getting ready, one thing to pack and one thing to practise.
Leh
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Boots that fit before you pack anything else
Toes, heels and a thick sock: what I check in a shop and on a hill.