Two days in Leh before you go any higher
Thin air, a slow walk to the market and why the first two days are empty.
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Leh
Leh
What goes in the top of the pack
The short list I reach for first, and the heavy things that stay at the bottom.
Leh
Stairs with a loaded pack, four weeks out
Twenty minutes up and down with a few bottles of water on my back.
Below the pass
Why we turn back at the first bad headache
The one rule on the trail that I never bend, and how I say it kindly.
Leh
Boots that fit before you pack anything else
Toes, heels and a thick sock: what I check in a shop and on a hill.
Indus valley
Planning days that are not too far or too high
How I cut a route into days that a tired person can still walk.
Kitchen tent
Tea, soup and water: eating well when you are high
What the kitchen tent serves at five in the morning, and why it works.
Leh
Eight weeks out: one plain training week
Walking, stairs and one long day, with a rest day in the middle.
Indus valley
Walking past a chorten and a line of prayer flags
Which side to pass on, and why we do not step over the flags.
Leh
Choosing the month: when the passes are open
What the weather does from June to October, and what I would choose.
Before the Pass
A short letter every Sunday from Leh: one thing about getting ready, one thing to pack and one thing to practise.
Leh
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